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Something is happening in fashion that is whirling us back to the 1930s and ’40s—times of tension and ensuing horror, when glamour and surrealism held out hopes and dreams on the silver screen. Erdem again plunged us into that feeling as we sat—apparently backstage in a theater or on a movie lot—while a stream of girls passed by on the way to a notional audition. “I thought of them trying to put their best foot forward, of what they were trying to be, heading toward the lights and stardom—or not,” said Erdem Moralioglu. As an introduction, the soundtrack from All About Eve, echoing footsteps and terse conversation, filled the air. “It’s that scene where Bette Davis arrives late and realizes her part has been taken,” the designer added.

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